Saturday, November 29, 2008

Part 3: Asheville - North Carolina

Asheville is a liberal oasis (depending on your perspective) in the fairly conservative state of North Carolina. (North Carolina did vote democrat this election by about a 1% margin though). The city is a mecca for live music and by association musicians in particular blue grass musicians. More on that shortly.

Kara has been working in outdoor education with kids at risk for the past three years. The kids are taken into the mountains and dropped off blindfolded with a compass, an iPod, a bag of crisps, a rubber band and a paper clip. They then need to make their way to a base camp 20 miles due south. Their success rate is 98.7% and they have only lost three kids. Okay, this is only what I think that they should do. Read here about the incredible work that Kara really does.

We arrived on Halloween evening. For those of you who don’t know, Halloween is a BIG deal in the US. People get their houses decked out a month in advance and by decked out, I mean full sized activity scenes of 20 plus ghouls, vampires, ghosts etc in their front gardens / yards. I dressed up as a “Happy halloweiner” flasher, Hannah was a (star) trekkie and Kara was a ‘waist’ of time.

Kara took us to her friend, Dave’s (Marty McFly) halloween party. It was a great halloween party and people really dress up with imagination. There was the man with the little chicks all over his jacket – the chick magnet! There was the woman in the bridal dress with Russian stamps all over her dress – the mail order bride. As I mentioned, Asheville is blue grass country. It seems that all musicians bring their instruments to parties and at some stage of the evening, a jam session develops. But these aren’t just any instruments, these are banjos, guiters, double basses, fiddles, violins!! Hannah and I sat enthralled for large parts of the evening listening to such incredible music!! Country music and by association, blue grass music has got a bad reputation through movies like Deliverance, but I’ve found it to be such good fun.





The second reason we went to Asheville was that Cory (Hannah’s brother) is studying at Warren Wilson college just outside Asheville . So we spent time with him, Christina and their daughter Willow. Willow was in a fine mood and really enjoying baby handling the crunchy autumn leaves.












The third good reason for visiting Asheville is that our trip was carefully crafted to coincide with Kara’s birthday. Asheville and a fair amount of North Carolina is mountainous and forested and both of these have a habit of making a landscape aesthetic beautiful. Asheville is no exception. Kara had a birthday gathering at a friend’s cabin in the mountains surrounding Asheville. The mountain is covered by a poplar forest which was in full autumn colo(u)rs. There was also a little stream that ran by complete with small trout. It was great to meet some of Kara’s friends and to hang out in such a beautiful place. That night we went to the ‘Brew ‘n View’ which is a cinema with a difference. Instead of chairs arranged in theatre style, the cinema had couches and tables, a bar stocked with a local brew and a pizza oven. It was quite an experience watching ‘Tropic Thunder’ eating pizza and drinking a draught. There is a gap in the SA market!

The next day Hannah, Kara, and Kara's friend Mike went for a hike for Kara's 25th birthday while I went fishing (fishing report below). Hannah, Kara, and Mike hiked at Max Patch, a bald mountain on a section of the Appalachian Trail that borders North Carolina and Tennessee. Mike left "trail magic" at one of the huts for other through and long distance hikers. The next day we left to go back to Greenbelt.

Fishing report

North Carolina has some fantastic salt water fishing, but Asheville is about 5 hours drive from the sea. There is also some incredible trout rivers around Asheville in particular the Davidson. It is a pity that there is a spelling mistake, but that doesn’t detract from the fact that it is rated one of top 100 streams in the US. There are extremely large brown trout that are notoriously difficult to catch. This is probably because these large browns have figured out that the discharge from a hatchery upstream includes pellets used to feed growing hatchery trout is much better than the tiny nymphs / terrestrials normally on offer. So these browns get big and frustrate most fly fishermen’s efforts to catch them.

This reminds me of a story told to me by Harry, a great fly fisherman who I’ve befriended in Greenbelt. He was fishing on the lower Gunpowder river and reached a pool that had a few magnificent trout holding in the middle. Harry spent the next hour presenting the contents of his entire fly box to these decidedly uninterested trout.

I went to another river close to the Davidson where I fished for the morning. The water is these NC rivers runs extremely clear and cold. The river level was low as the winter rains had not arrived yet. I experienced with trying a team of two nymphs. I finally decoded my first brook trout on a #18 black midge papae. I had two more takes but didn’t hook up.









One of the Davidson river brown's that I didn't catch!













A typical looking NC river!

Part 2: Ann Arbor – Michigan

One of my best mates, Finn, met an American girl at an ultimate tournament in Italy…and you can probably guess the rest. If you can’t, they are now married and living in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Finn is working and Ashley is attending law school at the University of Michigan.


We drove up from Richmond to spend the five days with them and their two kittens, Paga (the shortened name of the ultimate tournament where they met) and Scoober (an upside down way to throw a disc). They have a fantastic apartment close to the town’s centre that they have painted and decorated beautifully. Ann Arbor is largely centred around the University. The varisty american football team has had over a 100,000 spectators at each of its last 236 games…That is staggering!!

It has been a dream of Ashley’s to attend law school and I am amazing and so impressed with her determination and perseverance. 1st year law is notoriously difficult through some misguided ‘break ‘em down to build ‘em up’ mentality on behalf of the academic staff.

Finn is currently working in two restaurants who, in true Finn style, both think he is the best thing since sliced bread. It was great to spend quality time with him as it felt like slipping back into a familar South African groove – someone who knows you well and who also has a funny accent just like your own. We went out to dinner several times and made some nice dinners at home and played scrabble (Finn introduced us to some new intriguing rules involving rearranging words already on the board to make new words with the addition of new letters) and texas hold ‘em poker. The nights were cold, but the days were beautiful though admittedly a little fresh if the wind blew.

We found a disc golf range close by that, unbeknown to us, had hosted the 2000 world championships. It was actually two courses next to each other and each course that six additional holes. So for the princely sum of $2 you can play 48 holes. Needless to say it was most fantastic course I’ve ever played on. It was laid out exactly like a golf course, cut and kept fairways and manicured greens . Most holes are normally between 50 – 140 metres (150 – 420 feet). One particular par 5 was 300 metres (approx 1000 feet ). Hannah, Finn and I played all 48 holes on one particular day. Half way through the first course, the wind came up and with the wind chill factor, we had to stop at the 19th hole (25th hole) for a quick whiskey warm up.





















After five fantastic days, it was sadly time to say goodbye and it was off to Asheville North Carolina to visit Kara.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

The round trip - Part 1!

It was time to hit the road again! This time for a two week, 2000 mile (15 000 km) trek to Indiana to Michigan, down to North Carolina (through Kentucky and Tennessee) and ending in DC.

Part 1: Gary Indiana, Gary Indiana, Gary Indiana!

We didn't visit Gary, Indiana. Instead, we visited Richmond, home of Earlham college which happens to be the college where Rachel (Hannah's sister) is about to finish uni. Earlham is a quaker, liberal arts college.

Rachel, amongst many other talents, is a fiddler of distinction. She played in a five women string band named the Huntsville Space and Rocket Centre.









Huntsville Space and Rocket Centre - Rachel is third from the left.


Although, they had disbanded, they were rejoining for a wedding to be held the weekend that we were in town. They were hold a rehearsal concert which was the reason for our visit. Richmond is somewhat of a college town although the relationship is always smooth - Indiana is moderately conservative and Earlham is extremely liberal. Being in Richmond, gave Hannah and I an excuse to relive our college days like buying Coors beer for $10 for 30 beers - happy times! Jenifer came up for the concert as well. She also went to Earlham so I dare say that she was reliving her college days too.

We hung out with Rachel's house mates a fair amount, went to the local bar on student night ($4 a pitcher of Bud) and explored the town a fair bit. The concert though was such a highlight!! Rachel is incredibly talented and the band is really fantastic! I'll try and get a sample of their music so that you can listen too.

The following night we attend Rachel's best friend, Lizzy's 21st! It was a classic college party, with cheap beer, loud music, cops arriving, some nameless guy trying to bail out through a window and being caught by the above mentioned cops! Great fun...if you are over 21.




















Jenifer with her face painted at Lizzy's 21st!

We were lucky enough to go to an Obama rally will we were in Indiana. It was great to attend one of Barack's rallies in person. Although we'd heard much of what he was speaking about, Barack is truly a phenomenal and charismatic speaker. The crowd was small at 25,000.

















We asked Barack if he would pose for us during his speech.
















Hannah and Rachel posing back.
















Don't let anyone say that Barack isn't patriotic!




















Need I say more!















We spotted this in Indianapolis after the rally...Fox news having an Obama sticker is like an SABC car having an ANC sticker in 1982!! Hectique!



New New York!

After Cape Cod, we spent 5 short days in New York...because we missed all our NYC friends.

We stayed with Karen in Soho who has become our New York home away from home.

We saw Scotty, Gou, Sam, Jared and Blake again!













Brock and Ian happened to be visiting Omara and John who we'd recently seen at Lindsay's wedding so it was great to meet up with them as well. We went to watch a friend of Hannah's, Sam play in a live show in New York.










Sam in action!

We also saw Nawi play with his new psychedelic band, "Shades of Yellow".















Nawi in action!

Here are some pictures from the city that is New York!
















NYC sometimes makes you feel like this!
















Ceres fruit juice is also popular in NYC
!















They don't show you this car on NYPD blue!




















Parking in NYC can be a little tight sometimes!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Snow!!

I saw snow falling from the sky today for the first time! It melted pretty quickly and didn't settle on the ground, but it was still falling from the sky. It looked like someone had dropped a huge ball of cotton wool into the big fan in the sky. I suppose that this (un)officially marks the beginning of Winter.

Here is a collection of photos of the legendary New England fall leaves that we have taken during our travels.



















































You can pick your own cherries in Ceres, but in American, around Halloween, you can pick your own pumpkins!


Yes we did!

So this post is about 13 days overdue, but it has taken about that long to sink in!

On 4th November, America chose Barack Obama as the 44th president!

Truly the stuff of legends!



Here is a more emotional side of what the election of Obama means to some Americans.



















Obama showing that he can just kick it with the rest of us in Africa!

Friday, November 14, 2008

Trip within a trip

While we were at the Cape, we took a four day trip into Massachusetts. Our first stop was Hannah's varsity town Northampton / Amherst (they are bordering towns). We met up and stayed with Hannah's great friend Julie who still lives and now teaches in Northampton. Kara, Beth and Marc met up with us as well so it was great to have everyone together.






Kara, Julie, Hannah and Beth!

One of the reasons (excuses) was to go to the Iron Horse bar and watch Liam Finn, who is the son of Neil Finn (founder of Crowded House). He is basically a one-man show and he uses looping effects to record different instruments and combine them to make his songs - amazing! There was a funny moment when he saw a woman in front sms'ing on her cellphone, he jumped on her table and started doing a guitar solo. He changed the chorus of the next song to "Solo in her face"!















The golden rule - don't sit in the front...EVER!

We played a game of disc golf on a course in the middle of a forest. By it's nature, a forest is full of trees. This forest was particularly full of trees and thus our game was more challenging than normal. Basically I hit a lot of trees.






The background was the thinnest the forest got!

We spent the night with Hannah's cousin, Clover, her husband Geoff and their son, Parker. Clover is a wedding planner and had two weddings the next day but we went to a local pub for a few beers. We went for a beautiful hike with Parker and Geoff the next morning in a glen behind their house.


In the afternoon, we drove to Cheshire to stay with Beth's parents as Beth and Marc were having the american leg of their wedding celebration (their wedding was held in New Zealand in Aug 2007). Not all the family and friends could attend so they held a celebration for all these people!





The frisbee wedding cake!

Beth's family lives in Cheshire, Massachusetts which is a beautiful semi-urban area in the Berkshires. There was plenty of food and even more beer so a great night was had by all. Beth's dad have saved a pile of wood big enough to build a barn as he wanted a bonfire, a big bonfire!!

It was still burning the next day...















Yes, it really was that big!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Election time!


This has been an historic time to be in the USA with the sub-prime loan disaster leading to the Wall Street crash and credit crisis and the 2008 presidential campaign. This is shaping up to be one of the most historical US elections of all time. Read more here. For those of you who don't know, the election happens in each state on the same day. The presidential nominee who gets the most votes in each state wins that state. BUT each state has a certain number of predetermined electoral votes i.e. California has 55, Vermont has 4. A nominee has to get 270 electoral votes to become president. Click here to see the New York times electoral map with the surveyed leanings of each state.














The presidential campaigns have dominated the news for months and most people are worn out from all the media attention. I'm sure that there has been a fair amount of media attention in SA as well. Hannah and I have been following the election campaigns very closely. We have had many lively debates over coffee cups, dinner tables and during long car rides. We are unashamed Obama supporters and were lucky enough to attend an Obama rally in Indianapolis in October.










The media and most Americans are polarised along Republican and Democratic party lines. The to and fro has been pretty savage at times, if not downright dirty. But on the upside, the political comedy and satire has been brilliant!! SNL has been particularly excellent as well as the Daily Show and the Colbert Report. Click here for a fine example of election fun! Sure beats
Julius Malema!

The election is on Tuesday 4th November.