The Everglades

After such a fantastic fishing trip in Florida over New Years, I couldn't stop thinking about it!

So a plan was hatched to go camping in the Everglades for a week. I was kindly lent a kayak, onto the roof it when, in went the flyrods and 1,000 miles later I was in the Everglades. 

So the plan was to be in the Everglades for a week fishing. I stayed in Flamingo, which is one of the main campsites in the Everglades. Flamingo provides access to backcountry mangrove lakes as well as into Flamingo bay which is a relatively shallow bay filled with mangrove keys, flats and channels. 

Sunset at Flamingo campsite!

Channel through the mangroves!

My main target was tarpon. This incredible fish grows upwards on 200lbs and is tailor-made for fly fishing! Tarpon 'roll' on the surface to gulp air and thus they can be easier to find than other fish. There was a cold front just before I got there so the water had cooled down signifcantly.

Tarpon rolling!

On my first morning, the wind was blowing so I decided to paddle the background lakes and look for tarpon. The lakes are incredibly beautiful and often require paddling through mangrove covered channels to move between lakes which is always fun. I paddled probably around 12 miles scouting out some of the lakes. I didn't find any tarpon and managed to catch a ladyfish. The launch area was up wind so there was some stiff paddling back to the car. 

Paddling in the backcountry.

Aerial view of one of the backcountry lake!

Another shot of a backcountry lake that I fished in.

There is no electricity or hot water in the campsite. Supper was a braai (barbeque) every night. The park encourages campers to collect firewood in the campsite. So after collecting firewood and cooking supper, I was fast asleep by half eight. 

The next day was also windy so I went back to the backcountry lakes. I explored much more and managed to decode a snook. The going was pretty tough as the water was still fairly cold from the cold front. The days and nights were beautifully warm so it was just a matter of time before the water warmed up. In bed and asleep by 9pm!

The third day was also windy so back to the backcountry lakes before dawn. The going was tough as the water was still cold. I managed to get another snook but lots of paddling against the wind. By this stage, I was getting very comfortable fishing from the kayak. It really is a great way to fish and get around! I spoke to some boat based fly fishermen who told me that they'd seen tarpon rolling (finally!) in a wide canal that joined the campsite and the main backcountry site. 

The fourth morning I launched my kayak into the canal before dawn in search of the elusive tarpon. It was full moon so everything was bathed in moonlight and quiet and still. I paddled slowly up the canal and found small tarpon rolling in the canal. I cast my entire fly box but no luck. By 8am, enough boats had been past me for me to pack up. When I arrived back at the launch site, there were 2 10 foot crocs (not alligators) warming up on the far bank. Some things are best hidden in the dark! 

American crocs!

The day was beautiful and there was not a breath of wind. So I went back to my faithful tent for some breakfast to find that ants were helping themselves to my butter. I had to use grapefruit juice to discourage them from coming back. 

What is camping without a few ants...

I headed out into Flamingo bay. Wow! Just like the lakes, there is just so much life. Mullet (baitfish) swimming around, pelicans, ospreys, dolphins, sea turtles, big rays - it is simply amazing! I fished for redfish on the flats but I struggled to see fish being low in the kayak. 

I then fished between a two key that formed a strong, deep current between them. I paddled upstream and fished down with the tide and then I would paddle up again. Towards evening, I saw what I'd come to see, a 150+ lbs tarpon rolling in front of me. I cast to it and got a strong hit but it didn't connect...This has to be the fastest way to pump adrenalin through one's body! It was a beautiful paddle back to the campsite. That night the mosquitoes were in serious attendance. Winter is the main time for visitors to come to Florida. I met plenty of snowbirds (I suppose I was one too ;-) from Canada and the northern States. Apparently some unsuspecting tourists arrive in Summer and get carried away by mosquitoes when they get out of the car. They don't stay very long. 

I was very hopeful for the last day. The wind was blowing but not as strong as the first three days. I started paddling east along the coast, but a thick bank of fog began to roll in. Although I had a GPS with me, I didn't want to take a chance. My mom taught me well. So I paddle back and fished over some deeper channels. I managed to get some smaller jack crevalles (kingfish). I saw some big tarpon rolling but I didn't have any more hook ups. I paddled back during sunset and just basked in the beauty that is the Everglades. 

I had such a good time that I completely forgot to take any pictures. So I got some off the website to help paint the picture. I can't wait to go back!